17 replies to this topic

[jroy]

Im fairly new to the jeep world and im by no means a mechanic. but a mechanic buddy of mine is helping me swap the old 4 banger in my 89 YJ to a chevy 350 with a 700R4 trans. i just have a few questions and you guys seam very knowledgeable about the subject. so here goes.

1. Cooling the 350, I know there are companies that make radiators that's maid for these swaps but the ones ive found are $300+ so is there any stock radiator i can find that'll do the job and will fit? same question for an e-fan to go with it.

2. I've read mixed remarks on the use of NP231 T-case with the 350. i think it'll be just fine along with the factory axils. what do you guys think?

3. What all do i need (besides the trans cooler) to run the 700R4 in my jeep. its originally a manual (if that matters)

4. What size and brand lift do you recommend? im thinking nothing over 4' probably looking for around 3' to 3.5" and is it rally that much of a different?

5. Lockers or no Lockers? what about welding the rear end? good idea or bad?

Thanks again in advance, and im sure there will be more questions to come.

[Gabe]

1. Cooling the 350, I know there are companies that make radiators that's maid for these swaps but the ones ive found are $300+ so is there any stock radiator i can find that'll do the job and will fit? same question for an e-fan to go with it.

Not too many folks that have done the v8 swap here that I can think of honestly. Some that are looking into it in the near future though. Maybe they will chime in here.


2. I've read mixed remarks on the use of NP231 T-case with the 350. i think it'll be just fine along with the factory axils. what do you guys think?

I don't think I'd trust the 231 t-case behind a v8 power plant. I really wouldn't trust the factory axles either.

3. What all do i need (besides the trans cooler) to run the 700R4 in my jeep. its originally a manual (if that matters)

shifter, new driveshafts, fluids, new skid plate for the tranny, and plenty more


4. What size and brand lift do you recommend? im thinking nothing over 4' probably looking for around 3' to 3.5" and is it rally that much of a different?

spring over axles wouldn't be a bad option, it generally will net a decent amount of lift, but will need some trac bars to hold the axles from spinning up or down, depending on the gear selection.

5. Lockers or no Lockers? what about welding the rear end? good idea or bad?

Lockers are really nice, but again, i wouldn't waste the time with lockers in the stock axles with a v8 power plant.

Thanks again in advance, and im sure there will be more questions to come.

[Preston1645]

Im fairly new to the jeep world and im by no means a mechanic. but a mechanic buddy of mine is helping me swap the old 4 banger in my 89 YJ to a chevy 350 with a 700R4 trans. i just have a few questions and you guys seam very knowledgeable about the subject. so here goes.

1. Cooling the 350, I know there are companies that make radiators that's maid for these swaps but the ones ive found are $300+ so is there any stock radiator i can find that'll do the job and will fit? same question for an e-fan to go with it.

2. I've read mixed remarks on the use of NP231 T-case with the 350. i think it'll be just fine along with the factory axils. what do you guys think?

3. What all do i need (besides the trans cooler) to run the 700R4 in my jeep. its originally a manual (if that matters)

4. What size and brand lift do you recommend? im thinking nothing over 4' probably looking for around 3' to 3.5" and is it rally that much of a different?

5. Lockers or no Lockers? what about welding the rear end? good idea or bad?

Thanks again in advance, and im sure there will be more questions to come.

I'm not to familiar with the YJ so I'll stick to what I do know.
How you plan on using this jeep will make a big difference in the answers you will get to your questions.
#5 for instance, trail only and most might say yeah, welding is ok, unless you want to put on the street now and then...most would recommend an auto locker. A DD and I would say selectable is best.
So if you provide a short description of how you want to use the jeep, you might get some focused advice.
Good luck with the swap.

[Weezul]

Stoner (now Kyle@GenesisOffroad) did a V8 swap in his TJ. Not exactly the same but he might be able to let you know some tricks as far as the cooling goes. He's still running his stock Rubi t-case behind it all.

[jroy]

I would like to find a good balance between street and being able to hang with the big dogs off rode to. Now I know it’s not going to be a luxury street ride by no means and I don’t want it to be. Just want to be able to drive around and not be beat to death. I spent some time in the army I really don’t mind a rough ride. Off road though I would like to be able to go almost any wear I please. Like I said I know I can’t have both but a good balance is what I’m looking for. I’m in north MS so there’s not really any rocks to crawl around here so more of a trail type of off road experience is what I’m looking to build for. Some mud from time to time of course. Its MS you got to haha.

[Gabe]

I would like to find a good balance between street and being able to hang with the big dogs off rode to. Now I know it’s not going to be a luxury street ride by no means and I don’t want it to be. Just want to be able to drive around and not be beat to death. I spent some time in the army I really don’t mind a rough ride. Off road though I would like to be able to go almost any wear I please. Like I said I know I can’t have both but a good balance is what I’m looking for. I’m in north MS so there’s not really any rocks to crawl around here so more of a trail type of off road experience is what I’m looking to build for. Some mud from time to time of course. Its MS you got to haha.

you definatly need to jump up to at least 1/2 ton axles if not 1 ton axles. The stock jeep axles are prone to breaking under normal power let alone the addition of the v8 power plant. If you had dana 44s front and rear, I'd suggest just buying some better axle shafts and being done with it and just watch how you treated it.



what tires are you wanting to run?

[jroy]

not sure on the tires yet. trying to line all this out for now. nothing to crazy though.

[CJ7Man]

Visit advanceadapters.com and Novak.com
These 2 sites have ANYTHING you will need and tons of do's and don'ts and A LOT of info on 350 swaps to jeeps.

[CJ7Man]

And welcome to MSJ!

[DavidsYJ]

I'll chime in on what I can, which would be the lift. I went back and forth about how to lift my jeep. Spring over or spring under lift. What I decided on was the spring over axle option.

First thing I purchased was the rear Ford 8.8 which had the 3.73 limited slip gearing, next thing I did was get rid of that useless pain in the ass vacuum controlled front axle. This axle is much stronger than the D35 that's in there now and if you go with (I believe) '95 and up it's the disc brake rear end. Get the 8.8 out of the Explorer not the Ranger or Mustang.

I swapped that D30 out for a D30 from a '96 Grand Cherokee with the 3.73 gears and then installed a Spartan locker in the front.

I then put the Rough Country 2.5" lift springs on the front but I still have to get them for the rear axle. Believe it or not, I only have about 1/4" of height difference with this set up with the front sitting up more than the rear.

With doing the lift this way, I have a total of about 8.5" to 9" of lift on mine and I'm running 33" tires (for now). I ran a set of 35's at Hawks Pride and it did awesome.

If you do the Spring Over you WILL need to do a ladder bar on the rear axle, get the 7" spring perches instead of the factory 5" and this will help with the axle wrap.

With this set up you will also need a Slip Yoke Eliminator kit and a CV type drive shaft. On the driveshaft you can either order one from Tom Woods or you can go the cheap way like I did. I got a FRONT drive shaft out of an XJ and shortened it myself and used it. Now mine isn't put on the road anymore so if it's not balanced it's no big deal to me. I drove it a couple times on the interstate and it seemed to be pretty damn smooth though.

I hope this kind of helps you a little. I'm sure there's some information that I've left out.

[jroy]

thanks that does help alot. think ill go to pul a part and see what i can see

[sheepherda]

thanks that does help alot. think ill go to pul a part and see what i can see

Why don't you tell us a.little more about yourself? How you got your Jeep how you came across MSJ. I Myself am a Toyota Guy in the club. Yes there are Toyota's in the group.

[N2DEEP]

I'll chime in on what I can, which would be the lift. I went back and forth about how to lift my jeep. Spring over or spring under lift. What I decided on was the spring over axle option.

First thing I purchased was the rear Ford 8.8 which had the 3.73 limited slip gearing, next thing I did was get rid of that useless pain in the ass vacuum controlled front axle. This axle is much stronger than the D35 that's in there now and if you go with (I believe) '95 and up it's the disc brake rear end. Get the 8.8 out of the Explorer not the Ranger or Mustang.

I swapped that D30 out for a D30 from a '96 Grand Cherokee with the 3.73 gears and then installed a Spartan locker in the front.

I then put the Rough Country 2.5" lift springs on the front but I still have to get them for the rear axle. Believe it or not, I only have about 1/4" of height difference with this set up with the front sitting up more than the rear.

With doing the lift this way, I have a total of about 8.5" to 9" of lift on mine and I'm running 33" tires (for now). I ran a set of 35's at Hawks Pride and it did awesome.

If you do the Spring Over you WILL need to do a ladder bar on the rear axle, get the 7" spring perches instead of the factory 5" and this will help with the axle wrap.

With this set up you will also need a Slip Yoke Eliminator kit and a CV type drive shaft. On the driveshaft you can either order one from Tom Woods or you can go the cheap way like I did. I got a FRONT drive shaft out of an XJ and shortened it myself and used it. Now mine isn't put on the road anymore so if it's not balanced it's no big deal to me. I drove it a couple times on the interstate and it seemed to be pretty damn smooth though.

I hope this kind of helps you a little. I'm sure there's some information that I've left out.

Have you considered using hose clamps to balance your drive shaft? It's pretty simple and I have had some luck with it.

[DavidsYJ]

Have you considered using hose clamps to balance your drive shaft? It's pretty simple and I have had some luck with it.

Nah, it really doesn't bother me that it's a little off. We have the LJ if I wanna drive one on the road. But thanks for this info, never heard that before

[06blackmax]

I really don't have a lot to offer this thread as I'm just now doing the swap myself. But you'll have to consider motor mounts and trans cross member/skid plate. The 700R will have to have a converter lock up switch or there is a wire trick you can do to make it work on its in but you have to drop the pan and rewire the solenoid. I've done it once so I'll have to find my notes.
If your going with a stock V-8(I mean complely) the 231 will do for a while maybe upgrade to the wider chain and planetary. You'll have to use the one from the jeep so your drive shaft will be in the correct side I think, not sure of the difference between the 231J and the 231C.
Also if your engine was FI you'll need a regulator on the fuel system if using a carb so it won't blow the seat out of the carb.
Like was mentioned earlier, drive shafts, cooling, some wiring and lots of misc. stuff you won't think of till your in it to your neck.

Maybe this will help check out my build thread as I'm just fixing to start the engine mock up portion now.

Tim

[TS Offroad]

ll prep in saying Im no mechanic, but I did a TBI 350/700R4 swap in my 95 YJ.

It was really rather simple looking back on it. I think at the time I over-thought a lot of things and took longer than probably just doing it.
Things I can remember
I used the stock skidplate.
I used the 231 Tcase, turned the tranny adapter 90 degrees and made an adapter.
I used an Art Carr shifter. Hooked up straight away with no issues. costs a pretty penny, but well worth it.
I used an ebay "conversion" radiator. If I recall, was about 200 bucks. Nothing fancy, fit in stock location. Only difference were the inlet/outlet holes were swapped for the chevy engine.
I had a fuel cell, but used the donor fuel pump. Kept the stock fuel lines up to the back of the engine, then adapted into flexible hose with ansi fuel connectors to the tbi
Kept the stock mechanical fan. There are a million places to get motor mounts, I got mine from advance adapters I think.

Im sure there is much more Ive forgotten than I remember...but that is a start. I had Dana 60s under the rig when I did the swap. I recommend at least Dana 44s. Not because of horsepower...but torque. They hit the torque range so low....my rig would chirp all four 42s locked on the street. You twist stock axles like pretzels if you take out of a light to fast. Wiring was interesting, more so finding what fed the YJ than what fed the engine. Its about the same as most....5 wires to fire. I really liked the TBI setup because it was mostly self contained, It didnt care what rig it was in...it runs on its own pretty easy

Anyway....good luck on the swap ! My next swap is gonna be an LS 5.3 in the old JK once its paid off. I just replaced mine current engine with one that only had 24K....so Ive got a few miles to save some chedda !!!

[DavidsYJ]

That thing is gorgeous.

[Bigsby]

That thing is gorgeous.

Get the drool off of your chin BOB!!! and put the lube away! Your not gonna need it!

Looks REALLY GOOD btw!